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FF: And so how many people did
you have on your team for Guys and Dolls? William Ivey Long: I had one assistant, Sue Gandy. Wonderful.
She mostly works with Ann Roth who designs movies. So she mostly does movies. And she was
fabulous.
And then I had my hair people and makeup people.
And then I had a shoe person and then we had two assistants. So it was a small team of
about five.
But it could not have been done, any of it,
without Vincent Zullo of Vincent Costumes. And he is now retired and gone out of business.
This certainly is a great tribute to him; wonderful tailor. Italian tailor of the highest
order, and knew his periods and he also invented a (sewing machine) zipper foot. He welded
a zipper foot. Vincent Zullo welded a zipper foot that would weave through the zipper. It
would weave the little threads together and stitch them into the fabric as it went. And he
did it all by soldering and welding and ...
FF: Really ...
William Ivey Long: ... all himself.
FF: Thats amazing.
William Ivey Long: He twirled like how many
different threads together, and that made it. So brilliant.
FF: Yes.
William Ivey Long: And then tailored up a
dream. Tailored up a storm. So that was the team. So Vincent was actually an associate
designer of the piece, to be very honest. Because his eye went into the creation of these
as much as anyone.
And then we had the hat makers, Woody Shelp, and
then Miss Adelaides costumes were made by Sally Ann Parsons of Parsons-Meares
Costumes. And shoes by J.C. Theatrical. And lets see -- Gloves by LaCrasia. It was
just a wonderful, wonderful group of -- all of us.
Once it was cast, I thought, who will look great in
this color. So I did the colors first. I knew the main people. I designed them as colors.
And then I took the people and placed them around.
So is that an answer?
FF: Absolutely. And as far as Faith Prince is
concerned, did you consider her coloring for the costumes?
Faith Prince |
William Ivey Long: Faith is a redhead. And I
just wanted her fabulous va va va voom figure to be the talk of the town. And so all of
the designs for the Hot Box girls, well, none of them had Faiths figure. They were
all Jane Fonda workout girls. So Faith has this va va va voom drop dead figure. And when
Im in a fitting and people say, oh my hips are too big. I said excuse me,
thats the part of the va va voom. You cant have va va va and then no voom. So
you gotta have the hips to go back out. So she has all the shape anyone could need. She
was fabulous in King and I but of course you saw none of that.
FF: Right, exactly. And did you pick these lovely sort of
blues and turquoises for her?
William Ivey Long: I picked them all for her
colors, for her coloring.
FF: I loved those.
William Ivey Long: I picked all the primary
colors. I mean look at that.
FF: I know, its just gorgeous.
William Ivey Long: Did she stand out or what?
FF: Absolutely.
William Ivey Long: And there she is in the
big chicken.
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And I just -- oh madness. How did we get by with this and not be
arrested? And Ill never forget going in to Peter Gallagher. If you know Peter, he
has curly hair. And I had never met him before, and Id just seen him in movies with
curly hair. And I took in this hair stuff and I said, you know Peter, for the dress
rehearsal tonight, because this is the first dress, can you try some of this stuff?
And he says, well, what is it? I said well they
tell me its this -- its like -- sort of stuff. I said just try it; put it in
your hair. Lets read the instructions.
So he read the instructions -- its as simple
as Im telling you. And we read the instructions, and he said oh, so maybe I should
wet my hair first and towel it, then put it in. I said well thats what it says: wet
hair like after a shower. And he said, well what do I do? I said well just -- just comb it
back. I said just try combing it back. Honest to God this is how it happened.
And this is the result; he had never done that. And
he walks out on stage, and youve got this Sky Masterson movie star. Of course he is
a movie star. But its fun when youre young and starting out and doing goofy
things like that, and you go, well just try this stuff. Lets read the instructions.
Its just as simple as that.
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Peter Gallagher and Josie de GuzmanAnd I only mention that because he became -- I mean this is a
legendary look.
FF: Right, exactly.
William Ivey Long: You know, this is not just
a nice look; this is a legendary look.
When I do what I like to refer to as a previously
owned musical, I try my very best not to look at the movie or pictures of the original.
And I sort of do a lot of these revivals; Chicago, Cabaret, Guys and Dolls ...
FF: Annie Get Your ...
William Ivey Long: Annie Get Your Gun.
Im getting ready to do The Music Man.
FF: Oh really!
William Ivey Long: So I have two observations -- I
come at this from the way Ive explained it to you. The color scheme was all about
Tony Waltons Runyanland, and how to find Nathan Lane, whose story it is. So I put
him in black with white with black stripes, and I put him on stage, and after were
in previews someone brings me the original productions Playbill. Damned if I
didnt put him in the same suit that Alvin Colt put Nathan Detroit in in the
original. Same exact. I was coming from a different place. I didnt look and there it
is. How about that?
Then, the Bushel and a Peck number. I
knew, because it said in the script, that the Hot Box girls were farm girls. Chris
Chadman, the choreographer, had me come and look at what they were doing. I said, Chris,
what if I -- okay Ive got it. And right then and there I said what if I give you
fans to work with. And what if the fans -- Im getting it -- what if theyre
chickens? And they pluck themselves? And play with the fans?
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Well lo and behold thats what happened. Seriously, it was just
like that, just as silly as that. Because -- and then Miss Adelaide I dressed like Lillian
Russell, because youve got the va va va voom going, and whos one of the
biggest va va va vooms of yesteryear but Lillian Russell. And so it just worked out very
nicely.
And then they took their fans out of their behinds
which had been previously, you know, their chicken feathers. But we left one little
feather in there.
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Just so silly. You know, I just keep going until
someone says stop. And believe me, they say stop sometimes.
FF: And when did you move to New York?
William Ivey Long: I moved to New York City
after graduating from Yale Drama School, I moved to the Chelsea Hotel which is a
stones throw from where we are right now. Because I really wanted to work with the
great and legendary couturier Charles James.
FF: Oh sure.
William Ivey Long: And I did. And I lived
there for five years, at which time I worked with him. I was the slave, you know. But in
homage to that great time, for the Take Back Your Mink number, I designed Charles
James gowns that break away. And no one, if youve already seen Guys and Dolls, could
tell how they were supposed to come off. So that was great to be able to do a Charles
James homage.
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And, of course, late Forties, Charles
James land. And of course theres a double meaning here, because he designed personal
clothes for Gypsy Rose Lee.
FF: Is that right? I didnt
know that.
William Ivey Long: He absolutely
did. One of his favorite clients. One of his absolute favorite clients. Because
thats what he was about. People who appreciated high style. So he was extremely fond
of her.
And so, not that I did a Charles James
Gypsy Rose Lee dress, but it just adds to the mix.
FF: Yes.
William Ivey Long: So the lovely Hot
Box ensemble ladies were the Jane Fonda workout girls. I mean you could pinch them, no
fat. Totally perfect -- like yourself. No va voom though. What do I do? Weve got the
va va but I didnt get the va voom.
So we had to pad out, do like Dior
did, pad well, there were some tears in those fittings, I could tell you. They had
worked so hard to not have hips, and here I am padding out against their hips. Well the
tears -- but then they understood. So I tried to make them look like Faith, because you
know, theyve got to.
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